Following California’s Zinfandel Trail

Janell Dusi grew up on one of the oldest vineyards in Central California, in a room where the gnarled vines touched her window. As a fourth-generation farmer of zinfandel grapes, Dusi worked the loam-filled soil on the ranch started by her Italian-immigrant great-grandfather in 1925 to raise grapes that burst with flavors of spice and candied fruit. And at the end of every harvest season, she’d watch her family’s hard work go out the driveway in the back of pickup trucks to be crushed, fermented, aged and bottled by winemakers elsewhere…